Woman's Evening Dress: Bodice and Skirt

Currently not on view

Woman's Evening Dress: Bodice and Skirt

c. 1885

Designed by Mrs. C. Donovan (American (New York)) Worn by Mrs. John Cadwalader (Mary Helen Fisher) (Philadelphia)

After her death in 1906, Irish-born Catherine Donovan was described by the New York Times as "the pioneer dressmaker of the 400," for dressing New York's social elite known as the "400." She owned a building on Madison Avenue at 40th Street, where she sold imported gowns from leading Paris couturiers such as Charles Frederick Worth and Emile Pingat. At least once, her employees' baggage was seized at U.S. customs on suspicion of smuggling. It was common practice for seized goods to be auctioned publicly, and in 1893 over five hundred people attended an auction of Worth, Pingat, and other gowns seized from Donovan. This evening dress looks to France for inspiration, combining references to the late seventeenth century in its silhouette based on the mantua (loose gown worn as a robe or overdress) and to the late eighteenth century for the striped silk design.

Currently not on view

Object Details

Titles:

Woman's Evening Dress: Bodice and Skirt

Date:

c. 1885

Artists:

Designed by Mrs. C. Donovan (American (New York)) Worn by Mrs. John Cadwalader (Mary Helen Fisher) (Philadelphia)

Medium:

Flowered striped pale blue silk moiré, pale blue silk satin, ecru lace

Classification:

Costume (including accessories)

Credit Line:

Gift of Thomas Francis Cadwalader, 1955

Accession Number:

1955-98-2a,b

Geography:

Made in United States, North and Central America

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Currently not on view